Wednesday, March 28, 2007

Land Ahoy!!

AS MENTIONED in a previous article, Bolivia's claim to its former coast is viewed, rather cruelly considering the passion most Bolivians' have for the return of it, as a joke.

The 'Day of the Sea' was last week, and as usual there was the parade of army, air force, police etc etc and even Bolivia's own navy sailors (snigger snigger) marching down La Paz's cobbled streets towards Plaza Avaroa, named after Colonel Eduardo Avaroa. He was the man in charge of Bolivia's defence of the sea after the Chilean invasion.

There is a great myth/legend/truth/whatEVER of Colonel Eduardo Avaroa which is held close to nearly all Bolivian hearts. He is seen by the majority of Bolivians as the brave, courageous national hero who stood up to those thieving Chileans'. The story goes that in the final exchanges of a war Bolivia was desperately loosing, during a final stand on a strategic Bridge whilst injured and hopelessly outnumbered, he uttered these few words in reply to a Chilean demand to surrender. He said....;

"¿Rendirme? ¡Qué se rinda su abuela, carajo!"

and for those of you not too accustomed to Spanish....;

"Surrender? Your grandmother should surrender, you fuck...!".

Not quite 'Et Tu Brute' of even 'Kiss me Hardy', but still rather poignant i think.

The parade is a huge affair with main roads closed off (causing traffic mayhem in all other parts of the city) and people lining the streets waiting for the precession to pass by. Waves and waves of people march past Plaza Avaroa and disappear off side streets, all marching to the beat of countless well tuned marching bands.

The climax of all this sees Avaroa's ashes taken to 'his' plaza along with a flag which is said to have been the last Bolivian flag hanging in the area taken by the Chilean army. It was taken back to Bolivia by a general's Daughter who took it from a fire station. That’s what they say anyway.

The ashes and the flag are then put in front of the current President who drones on about getting back the sea yada yada yada yaaaawn. This time was no different and good old Evo Morales even mentioned that when he was last in Chile some people were saying how they wished Chile would give the lands back to Bolivia. Yup. Course they did.

There is a certain strangeness in wanting something back which you had lost in a war 128 years ago, and without a sea surely the Bolivian navy has little or no use?

The Bolivian navy was reformed back in 1963 in an attempt to make the Bolivian people aware of their maritime history, and also supposedly as an attempt to shame Chile into making amends (i'm not sure how that works either). Thesedays they usually spend their time with perhaps an occasional patrol of Lake Titicaca, chasing the occasional drug smuggler and delivering fuel to remote communities, which isnt an overly heavy workload.

Raúl Viscarra, Commander of the navy's Amazonian section, said that the navy is there 'to show the entire world that Bolivia has a navy, and that one day we must return to the sea.'

The Bolivian Vice-President Alvaro García (i will do a future blog on him. His nickname if you could call it that is 'the gay', but his reputation is a total contradiction of that) said that the navy on Lake Titicaca serves as a living witness to Bolivia's mutilated soul. So there’s a reason to go to work if any!

But now in rather unfortunate circumstances the Bolivian navy has at last found a more pratical use for itself. The devastating floods that have hit Bolivia in the past few months have left some of the Eastern parts of Bolivia heavily under water. The navy used its river boats to rescue countless families from the rising tides - blamed on the El Nino phenomenon by meteorologists’, and blamed on George Bush by Evo.

Like presidents before him, Evo gives press conferences in front of an antique map of Bolivia with its coast still intact (does Blair have Victorian maps behind him when he speaks?). Sailors in shiny white suits guard him at many public events. School materials listing Bolivia's nine states never fail to mention the tenth that got away, nearly always including the flag and state seal for El Litoral - The Coast.

The Sea Question is one that will not be answered soon. Bolivia's commitment to its unlikely return might be a bit crazy, but the fact that the topic brings out so much passion, so much togetherness in a country which is so dividid can certainly not be a bad thing. Bolivia will never forget.

Wednesday, March 21, 2007

The Largest Pyramid In The World - and its in Bolivia!!!

OK, i'll slide away from that explosive title, but only slightly.

It’s 'potentially' the largest pyramid in 'South America', so not quite the world. BUT it is here in Bolivia and i'm sure its in the world top 10 at least. The problem is (as explained below), its not quite unearthed yet....

(THIS ARTICLE WAS FIRST WRITTEN BY ME FOR 'THE LLAMA EXPRESS' MAGAZINE IN LATE 2004)

'The Akapana Pyramid in Tiahuanaco could be the most important discovery in Bolivian history, and the prospect for mass tourism in the area is enormous.

Tiahuanaco has been a major tourist site in Bolivia for many years. Situated 71 km west of La Paz it is thought that the Akapana Pyramid was built around 300 AD by the Tiahuanacan people as a ceremonial centre.

It has been known for some time that a pyramid existed below what appeared to be an oddly shaped hill, but there to date has been little attempt to excavate it. At the moment all that can be seen of the pyramid are the small pockets of excavations that have so far been carried out. The measurements were gained using ground penetrating radar equipment.

This truncated pyramid (a pyramid with its cone removed parallel to its base) is 194 metres long, 184 metres wide and just 18 metres tall. It has seven different levels and no peak, quite different from the typical Egyptian model which is much taller, with four sides and a peak.

In 1934 archaeologist Wendell C. Bennett was credited with first ‘discovering’ the main Tiahuanaco site. Even though by the time he began excavations Tiahuanaco had already suffered from many centuries of plunder, he still managed to uncover fresh Tiahuanacan ruins at Pampa Koani.

Until 1986 the Tiahuanacan empire was thought simply to be a collection of small states, and not the advanced civilisation that it is now known to be. An excavation by American anthropologist Alan Kolata discovered that the Tiahuanaco lands once held up to 125 000 people who were supported by a highly advanced and complex agricultural system.

Tiahuanaco had risen from a collection of small independent agricultural states to having a self-supporting fully formed regional government and army.

The main obstacle hindering the uncovering of the pyramid is money. In the past 50 years the constant changes that have occurred in Bolivia has meant that there has simply not been the money available to carry out an excavation.

A consortium of SOBOCE (the largest cement producer in Bolivia), CAF (The Andean Development Corporation) and the municipality of Tiahuanaco have joined together with the Bolivian government to finally solve this problem. They are funding a comprehensive excavation of the area with the main intention of making it a major tourist attraction.

The consortium has so far raised just under U$ 1.5 million for the project which is expected to last five years. SOBOCE, CAF and the municipality of Tiahuanaco have promised U$ 160 000 per year, followed up by U$ 70 000 from the government. It is thought that at least a further U$ 3 million is needed to finish the excavations.

The project was started in August with Bolivian President Carlos Mesa joining in an ancient Andean blessing of the pyramid. The fact that the President of Bolivia is making an effort to help gives some indication of its importance to Bolivia.

The President of SOBOCE, Samuel Doria Medina, said of the find, “It’s going to be an important change for tourism in the whole continent, the whole world. I think that tourism in this country has an interesting future.”

After enjoying relative prosperity between 300 AD and 700 AD, the pyramid suffered from severe lack of maintenance from 700 AD until the end of the Tiahuanacan era in 1200 AD

It is thought that the Akapana Pyramid was used as a sacred site for large ceremonies with many offerings to the gods of the Tiahuanacan people. Many animal bones, especially llama, have been found so far during the excavation along with ceramic, clay artefacts and even dismembered human remains.

Even though the excavation is in the early stages there have already been a number of discoveries, including tombs. Pablo Rendon, head archaeologist on the east wing of the pyramid said, “When you find a tomb it takes more time to excavate as everything has to be documented photographed, categorised etc. The process is very tedious.”

“So far we have found ceramics which, when put together, make whole artefacts,” he added.

The pyramid was allegedly covered in sand and hidden from the world by later civilisations who did not want the site to be seen as a symbol of defiance. The pyramid was such a colossal structure that in the absence of dynamite or explosives the only way of destroying it was to cover it with soil.

When the Incas came across the then ruins of Tiahuanaco they claimed that it was the place where their creator Viracocha first made the people of the Andes out of clay. They also claimed that it was here that the first Inca was created and it was from Tiahuanaco that he was sent to Cuzco to form the Inca Empire.

In 1540 AD the Spanish found Tiahuanaco. In their search for gold they destroyed the back of the pyramid, but then mysteriously tried to repair the damage they caused. They did, however, make matters worse by repairing the rear wall of the Pyramid by using stones from the top, which were all of a different shape and material.

The Tiahuanaco ruins themselves are still full of mystery. Being 13 000 ft above sea level it is often wondered how a civilisation could flourish at such high altitude and in harsh conditions. There have been many, often wild views on Tiahuanaco’s past. An Austrian astronomer H.S. Bellamy thought that Tiahuanaco was the outcome of one of Earth’s former moons crashing into the ground, and, Erich Von Daniken suggested that Tiahuanaco was the base for an alien race on Earth who used their advanced technologies to erect the pyramid.

Seven different types of building materials were used in the construction of the pyramid. Analyses of some of the red sandstone found at the site showed the nearest quarry to be over ten kilometres away from the pyramid site. This would have taken a colossal effort considering that some of the stones weighed over 130 tonnes.

Other material found at the site is thought to have come from even further away, over 90 km across Lake Titicaca from the Copacabana peninsula. The Andesite stones, which each weighed up to 36 metric tons, were most likely brought across the lake on reed boats, of the type that are still made and used on the lake today.

In 1957 Bolivian archaeologist Ponce Sangines attempted the first Bolivian study of the ruins at Tiahuanaco. He hoped to make the Tiahuanacan empire to Bolivia what the Incas were to Peru and rekindle the country’s somewhat shaken national pride after defeat in the war with Paraguay.

Bolivians today are very proud of Tiahuanaco and its history. Raul Meser, a student from La Paz, is thrilled by the prospect of the pyramid being a huge success with tourists, “My country has so much in it and I believe that people will get a much better experience by coming to Bolivia than they would if they went elsewhere like Chile or Peru. We can offer so much with the mountains, rainforest, and the people are fantastic.”

He continued, “I also think that the fact we (had) one of the most advanced ancient cultures in the world here in Bolivia is so good for our country. I think that not only foreign tourists should go there, but also Bolivian people should go and learn about their past, their heritage. I think the best thing that can happen is if we can publicise this find as much as we can.”

Although there has not been widespread media coverage of the Pyramid, CNN gave five minutes to the project which gave it some international exposure. The site is also due to be presented at the London Trade Fair in November.

Another idea to publicise the existence of the pyramid is to invite journalists from around the world to come to Bolivia and witness the pyramid for themselves.

The excavation is hoped to bring much needed tourism money to a part of Bolivia where 96% of the inhabitants are thought to be living under the poverty line.

The Tiahuanaco site already attracts 120 000 tourists per year which comprises nearly half the 350 000 tourists that visit sites around Bolivia each year. A total of around $US 1.5 million is hoped to be injected into the site of Tiahuanaco, aside from the money to develop the pyramid, to promote the site, crafts, textiles and to make the area more attractive to visitors.

The five-year plan to totally open up the pyramid is currently in operation, but many problems are being faced because of the poor state of some of the structure. Many years of damage caused by looting have taken their toll on the once commanding pyramid.

Plans are already underway for young people from Tiahuanaco to be educated in making skilfully crafted models out of silver. Beginning in 2005, 50 underprivileged students from Tiahuanaco and El Alto will be given sponsorships by SOBOCE to study tourism at university.

Samuel Doria Medina believes that education is the way forward for Bolivia. He said, “We have to help the community to solve the main problems, and the main problem in this country is unemployment. I think that tourism is one of the important things that can help…”

At a recent Bolivian crafts fair in Santa Cruz a group of Artisans selling models of the pyramid won a prize for their efforts. They also managed to sell in ten days more than they usually sell in four months.

The locals of Tiahuanaco are very much in the plans for the development of the complex and plans are already underway to clean up the site and make it more tourist friendly.

Samuel Doria Medina is also currently trying to find a good working model for waste control at the site. He said, “All small cities have problems (with waste disposal)…The local government does not have enough money so the rubbish is all over the place. This is not good for tourism.”

Research is currently being carried out in order to find a system that would work in Tiahuanaco to make it more tourist friendly. It is not only the rubbish that needs to be cleaned up, local housing and businesses need an injection of cash to improve ailing structures.

Well known Bolivian artist Gaston Ugalde has been contracted to help design the new entrances to the Tiahuanaco sites. He hopes to use previous designs and methods to make authentic, but at the same time modern, representations of Tiahuanacan architecture.

Many of the surrounding buildings have been built using stones looted from the pyramid. Some homes in the area even contain important stones or artefacts which date back thousands of years. Sr Doria suggests that stones should be returned to the site, rather than taken out. He said, “We have been taking stones (away from the site) for 2000 years, it is time to put some back.”

An Andean Cross has also been discovered on top of the pyramid which was previously thought to be some kind of drainage system. It is now considered that is was used for elementary stargazing.

Sr Rendon said, “We think that it was used for astronomy. We think that it might have been filled with water so that they could get a better look at the stars.”

One of the main problems that the archaeologists have encountered has been with the 3 000 cubic metres of earth that they are expecting to clear during the excavation. Sr Rendon continued, “The main problem is that there is a lot of movement of sand and earth which could easily come down on top of us whilst we are working. The sand is not compacted and very unstable.”

Within two years it is hoped that one whole side of the Pyramid will be totally uncovered, and within five years the whole pyramid exposed. At the moment only 3% of the whole Tiahuanaco site is visible, it will take many years for the other 97% to be available for Bolivians and tourists alike to see.

Sr Medina believes that tourism has a massive part to play in the future of Bolivia. He said, “I think the idea that Bolivia has the second biggest Pyramid in the world is emblematic of tourism for this country.”

If the Tiahuanaco pyramid is as big a discovery for Bolivia as many people are saying, then the future looks bright indeed, thanks to thousands of years of history. It seems the answer to many people’s prayers may have been buried in their back yard all along.'


AND there we have it. And you know what - they've still - nearly three years on from when i wrote that article done bugger all about this amazing find! shame.

Monday, March 12, 2007

The United States of South America

A groundbreaking meeting has been scheduled for all 'head of states and popular representative(s)' from Latin America to meet, and i assume, start off the Great Big South American George Bush Bashing Love-in (GBSAGBBL).

This 'first summit of Presidents and Social Movements' and GBSAGBBLs' of the region will be held here, in the tranquil heart of South America, Bolivia, and in the even more tranquil heart of Bolivia, Cochabamba in early June.

The meeting is brain child of socialist wizkid and head of the GBSAGBBL movement, Mr Hugo Chavez, the 'Big Cheese' from Venezuela. MR Juan Evo Morales Ayma Mamani, Bolivia's own 'Queso Grande' declared that the summit was;

"Important for Latin American unity.....(and) to liberate Latin America”

Whilst he continued under his breath;

"…from those feckin' thiefin' robbin' Chilian' bastards"

So from that we can conclude that the Bolivian head of state has his own plans for the new South American order, but what about the main one, the Chavster.

Chavez (from the state of Venezuela in the United States of (South) America) is, as mentioned above, the main antagonist in the war of words and oil against the United States of (North) America. He seems to be attempting to make George 'Doubleya' Bush look stupid and force his hand into making stupid statements and declaring war on countries for totally the wrong reasons.....oh.

But still, his recent Anti-Bush tour of South America declaring to everyone who would listen in near perfect English;

"GRINGO, GO HOME"

...is the first time during my stay in South America that this statement actually rings true!

His visit to Buenos Aires (capital of The State of Argentina in The United States of (South) America), was timed to coincide with George's visit to neighbouring Uruguay and attracted 40,000 plus Bush hating left-wingists in a packed out football stadium

The whole problem seems to be that the US has basically neglected their southern neighbours ever since 9/11, from where their foreign policy shifted towards messing with Middle East countries rather than South American ones. I am reading in the news that there is 'slight Anti-US sentiment in Latino America'. Notice there 'slight'. I could use that and say the journalist who wrote that was 'slightly' incompetent!

Mr Bush wants a more 'sensitive and comprehensive immigration policy involving Mexicans', which is OBVIOUSLY why he is building a big feck off wall to keep them all out! BUT, i think he has an ulterior motive in this. With China being the only other superpower in the world (not to mention them owning a stupid amount of the US debt) i think its the start of an UNCLEAR WALLS RACE. With China having their 'Great Wall', George is going to build one taller, wider and that snakes back on itself a few times to make it the LONGEST wall in the world...which can be more easily seen from space than the Chinese one;

"WOO HA HA HA HA HA" Cackled George.

G 'Doubleya' came into office with the promise that Latin America will be his priority, and his neglect of this promise has left a gap which Chavez has gratefully began to fill. The 'backyard' of America is trying to get over the side gate and into the street. Who knows where they will end up after that....